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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.